Saturday 08.06.2002 - Total exhaustion |
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Route: Sami - Enos - Sami Distance: 61,0 km Total: 181,3 km |
ROUTE |
As usual Alain's mobile wakes us up at 7 am sharp. It is hard to get up,
Alain and Gert both had a bad night due to the heat.
Today the climbing of the Enos is planned, with a height of 1620 m the highest
spot of the island.
Similar to our climbs on previous holidays we plan to leave the bags at the
hotel. When we want to check out at the bar we have to face the first difficulty
however. The hotel owner isn't present yet and the stressed cleaning lady is not
willing to take our money or bags. We try to convince her otherwise but in vain.
Meanwhile a couple enters the bar to inform about the room rates. The stressed
cleaning lady has no answer to all those questions and since she doesn't know
how to make that clear in comprehensible English she nearly starts flipping.
Poor lady.
We finally decide to write a note to the owner explaining our plans to leave the
bags in our room and to pay later today. We wonder where the bags will be
tonight...
Unfortunately all these arrangements took a while so we change our initial plan
to have breakfast after some 10 km of cycling. The bar opposite the hotel is
open now and we have a rich English breakfast.
Piet suddenly recalls he has forgotten the bicycle pump in one of the bags...
meaning he has to go back to the stressed cleaning lady! She has locked the door
meanwhile and is not really keen on opening it again.
It's 9.30 am and temperature has gone up strongly. We rush for water and
bananas to have some basic beverage and food for the first kilometers. No doubt
we will pass some more shops and tavernas on our trip...
The road to the top starts flat, Alain can hardly be stopped. But soon it will
strongly go uphill for at least 20 km...
After 11 km we stop to eat the bananas. The road between Sami and Argostoli has
been quite broad up to now and to escape from the heat we often went to the
other side of the road to enjoy the shadow of the hills and bushes. Another
15 km to go from here and our water supply has already shrunk severely. Still no
sign of a shop or taverna...
Our way to the top | Another 15 km... |
At the small chapel a few kilometers further on we get overwhelmed by the
bells of at least hundred goats. Impossible to get through so we have a short
break to regain strength.
But even after our break the goats are still around and have no intention to
step aside. We have to struggle to get trough them.
Goats |
As expected the asphalt road turns into a dirt road now, which actually is in
a relative good state due to cars that already went over.
Nevertheless, we REALLY do need some water now, hopefully we will find something
at the top!
The 8 km dirt road gets tougher by the minute and the energy level diminishes
accordingly. Our drinking bottles are practically empty and though we're cycling
in the woods, this doesn't really protect us from the increasing heat. If we
want the reach the top we will have to beg for water with the tourists passing
by in their air-conditioned rental cars.
As if they could read our minds, a car pulls over a bit later and stops in the
shadow of the trees.
Piet approaches the car without any hesitation and asks the family from Wales if
they could spare him some water. It is clearly noticeable Piet is at the end of
his strengths so they give him one of their cooled bottles of water. Meanwhile
also Alain arrives, hands tight on the handle bars, completely exhausted.
Nothing could make us more happy than this magical bottle of water...!
We share the water amongst the three of us, have a small conversation with our
saviors and say goodbye.
To show our gratitude once again, we put a note under their windscreen wiper,
mentioning our website address as well of course.
We're saved! |
From this point on we are about 7 km away from the top, we do have to make
it!
The water we just drunk seems to have been evaporated immediately though. Stops
get more frequently, the gear gets lower but the spirit is still present. Giving
up is the last we will do!
Heavily exhausted and without any food or drink we finally reach the top. We had
hoped to find some beverage here but beside some giant antennas, a huge building
and satellite receivers there is nothing here.
The building is fenced and it doesn't look like any tourist would ever come
here. Gert notices a hose at the building and for a moment he even considers to
climb over the fence to grab it and have some refreshing water. But the tap is
at the inside of the building and therefore unreachable.
We lay down on the ground until we regained enough energy to enjoy the
environment. The entire South coast is visible from up here and the view of the
green woods together with the white rocks, the blue-turquoise water, the lovely
beaches and some small isles here and there is superb! Impossible to put this
emotion in a picture but we gave it a try...
Top! |
There are 2 possibilities to go downhill again. Either we take the road we
came from, a road we know and certainly won't go uphill or we take the
South-East part of the mountain taken into account that the trip is longer, more
uncertain and even can come to a dead end.
We agree to give it a chance and go for the second option. A bit of a risk since
our map is not exactly trustworthy regarding the small roads; eventhough they do
exist they often don't appear on the map. Besides this the map gives no
information on relief at all, so it might go uphill again.
The first part is a though road covered with large rocks, the rear wheel is
continuously bumping from left to right. Technically the best on this part,
Alain is way ahead of us. But we should not complain, we are going down after
all aren't we?
Going down |
But the road even gets worse, with sometimes huge rocks in the middle of it.
Definitely not suitable for cars. The ones that got here have to go all the way
back in reverse, turning around is impossible.
As if 15 km of bad road with constantly braking was not enough, it suddenly goes
uphill again. Moreover, the total distance still to go is a big guess at this
moment.
Exhaustion is strongly present again. It is not the climb however being so
heavy, it is the energy level being too low due to the lack of food.
We are in such bad condition we start thinking about what plants can be eaten.
We try some grass with seeds, but this is not really our cup of tea.
Hallucinating about goat milk, Piet is even looking around for goats...
But the small chapel shouldn't be far anymore. And from there on it is the
asphalt road to Sami again, the same road we took uphill.
And again it is Piet providing us with some badly needed water. He manages to
stop a truck on the dusty road – the first human being for hours on this descent
– and asks for water. The truck driver gives him half a bottle of water. Happy
and exhausted at the same time he can hardly get the thing open.
Gert was ahead of the other two and meanwhile arrived at the small chapel where
the asphalt road starts. He is still puffing when Piet gets there. Some time
later Alain joins the club as well and we share the water.
No more torture from now on, all there is left is a long descent straight to
Sami - on an asphalt road!
The intention is to take it slow, after all we're exhausted and our
concentration is low.
But the bends are easy and not sharp at all so we soon get tempted to break our
speed record. In which we do succeed! During the 14 km descent we reach a top
speed of 76 km/h.
Once in Sami, we rush into the supermarket. Coca-cola, water, orange juice,
bananas,... it can't go fast enough.
Our original plan was to end today's trip in Agia Efimia but we agree to stay in
Sami and take back our room in hotel Riviera. The bags are still at the same
place we left them this morning.
Sami |
Our bodies are still in urgent need for some food, so we have some spaghetti
before throwing ourselves on the bed to take a nap. After the nap and a relaxing
shower we have a second, more substantial meal.
And we do agree on one thing: we will never leave again without enough provision
of food and beverage!
Tired but satisfied we get to bed. After this day to remember a good night rest
is welcome.
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